An equalizer is a balancer. To install an equalizer, you have to prepare the following tools for convenience: few screws, Phillips screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver, soldering iron, solders, socket, wire stripper, and electric drill and bits.

The equalizer is always installed between the receiver and the amplifier. The outputs then will be connected to the amplifier. There are equalizers that are for dashboards, and there are also others that are designed to be mounted in a different location or custom made. Equalizers like this are perfect for trunks or custom made boxer.

To install a remote-mount equalizer, decide where to set it, the only rule is that it should fall between the receiver and the amplifier. Most people set the equalizer at the back near the amplifier because in setting this kind of system, most people use more than one amplifier. If not, it’s still a good option to set the equalizer at the trunk even with one amplifier so as not to create mess when adding additional amplifiers. The trunk has also a bigger space to set the system up.

Take note that mounting or setting the equalizer on a metal or steel will create noise problems so we generally use non-conductive boards or mats and attach them to the car body.

To install an in-dash equalizer, setting it above or below the in-dash receiver will be better assuming that the dash is available or spacey. With this set-up, it would require a custom installation work. An alternative is an installation below the dash, a universal under-dash mounting kit which could be bought in most car audio shops. The under-dash mounting kit is attached to the mounting surface using strapping screws provided in the kit. There are also installation guides with regards to this when purchased.

Locate the “turn-on” wire behind the player. Stretch the amplifier wiring kit to the “turn-on” wire. Wrap them together using an electrical tape or a soldering iron.

Approximately, an ordinary equalizer requires 12-volt of power. To obtain such power, cut a small-gauge cable (approximately 16-gauge) long enough to stretch from the location of the equalizer to the vehicle’s fuse panel. Strip the end of the wire and attach it to the power input of the equalizer. Route the wire. Connect the wire to any source that produces 12V power using a fuse tap.

Grounding the equalizer is bit tricky. You have to detach a bolt near the equalizer mounting location. Crimp a ring terminal to one end of a small-gauge wire, and then bolt the terminal tightly to the metal chassis of the car so as to be fixed. Clean the workplace thoroughly. If there is no available ground screw or bolt, there is no way but to drill a hole. Oops! Just be careful not to drill the gas tank or any.

To power up the connection, detach the receiver from the dashboard and access the “turn-on” wire. Strip off the insulation from the bulk of wires connected to the radio. Strip off the insulation from the other bulk of wires that’s a long enough to stretch from the dash to the receiver to the equalizer, then plug the two wit crimp caps or solders. Wrap them with electrical tape, route the turn-on back to the equalizer mounting location.