There are two ways to install crossovers, the passive and the active. The passive crossover is easier and requires less work. It’s just a single step after the amplification process. The passive crossover is a capacitor usually installed right on the speaker lead itself. To install, you must first remove the speaker from the door or dash, or other location it may be attached for custom made. Detach the positive speaker lead from the speaker that was removed. Connect the bass blocker to the speaker. Place the speaker back to where it originally rests. And viola, that’s it!

Now, for active crossover which was said to be a little tedious to do and requires a little more work compared to passive crossovers, you have to connect 12-volt power, ground, and a “turn-on” lead. This is the like equalizers if you know how to install one. The active crossover gets installed between the receiver and amplifier. Any part will do as long as it is in the middle of both. For most active crossovers, there are both speaker-level and preamp inputs that can be good for either types of connection or set-up. Then, the outputs will preamp connections to the amplifier booming those sounds like live rock bands.

But first, you have to install them before anything else. As have said, active crossover requires 12-volt power, ground, and “turn-on” signal. And, it means that this should be attached and connected.

Cut a small-gauge cable approximately 16-gauge long to be able to stretched and reach from the location of the crossover to the vehicle’s fuse panel. Strip the end of the wire using wire strippers and connect to the crossover’s power input. Usually, it requires a crimp-on connector so it is better to have a few crimp-on connectors hanging. Route the wire from the location of the crossover to the vehicle’s fuse panel. Use a fuse tap to connect the wire to a source of switched 12-volts power.

Grounding the crossover requires the removal of the bolt near the crossover mounting location. Bring some ring and crimp to one end of a small-gauge wire. Bolt the terminal and secure to the metal chassis of the vehicle. Always make sure that you are applying it in the metal part of the chassis. Scrape off any paint and clean the workspace. If ground screws are not available, drilling a hole is another option if drilling would not mind. Just be careful not to drill the part where the gas tank or as such is located.

To power up the connection, you have to tap into the in-dash receiver’s amplifier turn on wire to get a turn-on signal for the crossover. It may sound hard but you can pretty much do it yourself.

Remove the receiver from the dash to access the wire. Strip off the insulation from the bulk of wire from the radio. Strip off again another bulk of wire that is long enough to be stretched from the dash to the crossover. Connect the two with crimp caps or even a soldering iron. Wrap them with electrical tape so as to protect the wires. Using the wire ties to secure the wire, route the turn-on wire back to the crossover mounting location. Watch out for exposed wires, you may have neglected a wire or two.